What is the basic differences between salt water tanks and fresh water ?
The main differences between salt and fresh water tanks is that the substrate used in marine tanks is either ocean sand, live sand,crushed coral, or dolomite. The purpose for this substrate is to aid in keeping the Ph levels in the tank to the required 8.2 to 8.3 levels. Sand is also needed if the tank is to house fish or inverts that are dependent on sand substrate to survive and feel comfortable.
Live Sand
Live sand is sand that comes directly from the ocean with all the live bacteria and organisms still in tact and ready to colonize in the tank environment and to help speed the cycling process and start the growth of beneficial micro organisms that many sand dwelling fish and inverts need to survive well in a closed environment.
Marine sand
The main difference between marine sand and live sand is that most marine sand has been cleaned and dried and any life forms that once lived there have been removed, this is a good substrate for most marine life and will help keep Ph levels higher but will not have any of the benefits of live sand in speeding the cycling of the tank because there is no beneficial bacteria or organisms present..
Crushed coral
crushed coral comes in varying sizes from course ground shells to particles just slightly larger than sand it has good buffering qualities for keeping Ph levels up but tends to be much dustier than the better gradesof substrate but is also less expensive. It must be washed well before adding to the tankto prevent cloudy water. It has no live properties to aid in faster cycling .Crushed coral is not recommended by most hobbyist
What is needed to make Saltwater ?
If you live very close to the ocean and can collect clean unpolluted salt water then it is perfectly safe to use but care must be taken to prevent harmful bacteria and parasites from being introduced to the tank. where they can reproduce rapidly in a closed environment and create problems that can be difficult to correct.
Manmade commercial Salt mixes are the most common way to create saltwater for a marine tank. These are fast dissolving salt powders that are made for the marine hobby and contain all the needed trace elements and minerals to simulate natural saltwater.There are many commercially made salt mixes and most are quite good and only vary in the numbers of trace elements they contain..
What type of filter do I need for saltwater?
Over the years many filters have been used and recommended for the saltwater aquarium. New filters are being designed everyday most do a good to excellent job. the following list will give examples of the most common ones used and the advantages and disadvantages of each.
Hang on filters.
Hang on filters are filters designed to hang on the back of the tank and draw water up through an area that is filled with sponge and carbon then return it in a waterfall fashion in to the tank. This filtering action works fine if the number of gallons filtered per hour is equal to at least 5 times the amount of gallons found in the tank and the tank is not overloaded with tank life that is creating waste faster than the filter can keep up with. An example would be a 55 gallon with a recommended fish load equal to 1 inch of fish per 3 gallons of water using a hang on filter rated at 400 gallons per hour would filter the tank water about 6-7 times per hour. that would be good filtration. Hang on filters that also have the added bio-wheel feature have the best filtering abilities because of the added wheel to collect good bacteria to help keep the tank balanced. Hang on filters that do not have sponge or some form of media to collect good bacteria are not recommended because there is to little area for it to grow and when the filter media is changed much of the good bacteria is lost. Advantages are that the filters are easy to access for cleaning and are less expensive than some other filters disadvantages are that enough space must be left in the back of the tank to allow room for the filter so the tank must be placed farther from the wall. If tank load starts to exceed the recommended levels then an additional filter may be needed.
Canister Filters.
Canister filters are excellent filters and are designed to be placed under the tank out of sight. They have a larger area to grow good bacteria and usually have room for other filter media as well such as phosphate removers etc. they also contain a sponge to collect large particle material filtered from the tank such as excess food, they have a chamber that contains bio balls or beads to hold and grow good bacteria that are undisturbed when working in the filter to clean it or to change carbon etc. Water is returned to the tank thru larger hoses so the addition of an inline U.V. sterilizer can be added if desired. Because there is nothing mounted on the back of the tank it can sit closer to the wall and works well for tanks that are used as room dividers and the use of visible filtration is undesirable. Canisters are a bit more expensive but are worth the extra. they also can be used with a spray bar that allows water returned to the tank to flow over a larger area and thus creating increased oxygen levels in the tank.
Wet/Dry or Trickle Filters
This is the filter that is most often referred to when talking about a saltwater tank and it was once believed that it was the only filter that could be used for saltwater. I still hear people coming in telling me that this fish store or that said they had to have a wet/dry or else! The wet/dry is a good filter and has it's good points but also it's bad.. The wet/Dry is placed under the tank and has a large area containing bio balls for growth of good bacteria, water from the tank trickles down over the balls to keep them wet and flows into a large sump where a pump pushes the water back up into the tank. Tanks can either be drilled on the bottom allowing a hose to be mounted to a fitting secured in the drilled hole or a prefilter box can hang on the back of the tank attached to the hose that returns the water thru the filter. I have always been in favor of the drilled tank over the prefilter box because it works much more efficiently, looks better and is much easier to restart if the pump is turned off or the power should go out.Wet/drys are rated the same as other filters when it comes to size of filter and size of tank. however the pump is usually sold as a separate item and in my opinion here in lies the problems. Pumps made to power wet/drys are expensive and come in a large variety of sizes and flow rates. The ratings indicate the number of gallons that the pump will push per hour but that rate is diminished by every foot that the pump is set below the tank level most pumps are located at 4 or 5 feet below the return so output can be greatly diminished. most people make the mistake of getting a pump that is not the correct one for their needs and have continuous problems with poor filtration and oxygen levels. The other main problem with this type of filter is that it has a large area of filter media to grow good bacteria but too much of a good thing is bad ,Nitrate levels can become very high and can be difficult to lower which is a serious problem in a reef tank and should be avoided. Corals and inverts do not respond well to high levels of Nitrate so Wet /drys have become less favorable in the reef keeping hobby of saltwater. Fish only tanks still work quite well with Wet/dry filtration and can allow a little bit of over population in tank life with out too much problem.Also a plus for wet/drys is that they allow the additions of protein skimmers, heaters UV's to be placed in the sump as opposed on the back or in the tank, also water for top off and water changes and tank additives can be added to the sump instead of directly into the tank .
New wet/dry filters have recently become popular that are designed to hang on the back of the tank and some have protein skimmers built in to the filter as well these filters seem do a good job but are mostly designed with the smaller tank in mind
Undergravel Filters.
Undergravel filters have been around a long time and were used for saltwater many years ago. The problems with undergravel filters are that they build nitrates and organic load and can create dead spots where air flow is reduced because of weight placed on top of the plate by live rock. Also heavier substrate must be used instead of sand because sand will fall thru the holes in the plate and clog the filter action. Most likely it will need to be removed at some point and would cause serious disturbance to the established tank.
What is meant by tank cycling and what is good bacteria and why is it important?
To try and explain this a simply as possible cycling a tank means getting the water and filter mature enough to support tank life with out fluctuations in water quality due to new additions ,water changes etc.
To understand what takes place in a newly established tank. it is important to understand the following steps and how they develop
Ammonia
This is the first step in forming good bacteria in your tank if it is a new sterile tank (never having any life introduced to the tank) If no life is introduced to the tank cycling can not begin ! the creation of ammonia is caused by the production of waste created by fish, decaying food not eaten by the fish etc. This ammonia is toxic but is needed to begin the the process .Ammonia levels in a newly started tank can reach extremely high levels. If fish are used to create this ammonia Damsel fish are recommended because they are very hardy and most times can withstand the toxic levels and are very inexpensive. as many as possible should be introduced to the tank right in the beginning so they can create enough waste and adjust to the rising ammonia levels gradually. 5-7 are recommended for a 55 gallon tank.
Nitrite
When ammonia levels reach their highest point they begin to change and convert over to nitrite. Nitrite is also toxic but is the half way point in the creation of good bacteria. As nitrite levels reach their highest point they begin to change and convert to nitrate.Nitrate is the good beneficial bacteria that is needed to keep tank water balanced and reduce the formation of ammonia and nitrite in the future Good bacteria is able to eat up or convert any ammonia or nitrites that form in the tank due to the introduction of additional fish or excess food or waste. With this method of cycling the nitrates formed are in balance with the original fish load and care must be taken in the begriming to be sure that new fish are added gradually so that bacteria levels can catch up with the waste production. many people choose to remove their damsels at this time and trade them for different fish that are less aggressive, care should be taken to add fish that are equal in size to the ones removed so the balance is not upset. This method of cycling a tank can take several weeks to a month depending on the tank size and number of damsels added at the start
Nitrates / Nitrosomas bacteria
Nitrates are the final step in the tank cycling process. Once there is a measurable reading there should be little no ammonia or nitrites left and tests should read zero. Nitrates would be in the 10ppm range. This is generally the time when a first water change would be recommended, this will help to replace trace elements used up during the cycling and to help raise Ph levels back up to the needed levels of 8.3 Ph levels usually drop naturally because of the high levels of ammonia and nitrite. A 20 % water change is the most recommended amount.
Tank Cycling with Live rock or base rock and Live sand
This is the most effective and fastest way to cycle a new marine tank. The reason that it is a better way is because when the live sand and live rock is added to the tank right in the beginning they bring with them already established colonies of good bacteria right from the start. Ammonia and nitrites will rise but they will be at lower levels and will convert quicker because the nitrosomas bacteria is already present and starting to do their job. The end result will be a better beginning colony of good bacteria, a softer and quicker cycle and one that will handle waste from newly added fish more effectively. For the person wanting to have a reef tank the live sand and live rock is the foundation needed to create a reef environment. For fish only tanks the rock provides natural foods sources and gives a more natural setting for fish to feel comfortable in. This method also prevents having to use damsels which are rarely wanted after the tank is cycled and spares them from having to survive the poor tank conditions during the process.
There are many benefits of live rock in the marine tank aside from the cycling benefits. Live rock acts like a natural filtering agent in the tank as well as in the ocean, it can help to stabilize Ph levels as well as create colonies of microorganisms that are important food sources for many marine fish.
Many people believe that if live rock is used it reduces the ability to treat the tank with medication if a parasite outbreak should occur however there are many new medications on the market today that are quite effective and safe to use with live rock, corals and invertebrates
Saltwater testing, how important is it ? How often should it be done? Should I invest in my own test kit?
Saltwater testing is very important both in the begriming of the tank set -up and after the tank has been long established. In the begriming the tests are good tools to tell what stage the tank is in terms of cycling, as the tank matures, these tests are guide lines for determine when to do a water change because of high nitrate levels or low Ph levels. Testing for ammonia and nitrites can indicate higher levels because of over feeding or a unnoticed fish death in a mature tank or malfunctioning filter equipment. Ph levels should be monitored thru out the life of the tank and are important for healthy tanks. Low or unstable Ph levels can indicate deteriorating water quality due to high organic loads or infrequent water changes. Most shops dealing with saltwater do water tests for free or for a nominal fee however if a problem should arise it might not be wise to wait until you can take a sample in to be tested , valuable time could be wasted and tank life could suffer needlessly. Reef tanks require a few more test than fish only tanks because of the coral life in the tank so interest is put on the calcium and iodine levels as well. Test are also available to check oxygen levels in the tank as well. Phosphate levels should be check if hair or red slime algae becomes a problem or if well or city water is used as a main water source.
Other commonly used saltwater Equipment
Protein Skimmers
Protein skimmers are important for reef tanks because of the amount of protein given off by live rock and corals as well as fish waste. protein is found in the waste of most living things and can build to high levels over time. High protein levels can have several effects, yellow tinted water, oily water surface, high algae growth, lower oxygen levels and Ph levels. Water changes dilute protein levels but never remove then entirely. Protein skimmers work with venturi action which spins the water and separates the proteins(oils) from the water as it filters and returns clean water to the tank the protein is foamed into a cup at the top of the skimmer and is easily removed and poured out. There are several types of skimmers from ones that can be mounted in the sump of wet/drys to hang on filter /skimmer combos to hang on skimmers alone All work well and vary in price according to size and type
Ultra-violet UV Sterilizer
UV sterilizers are units that house a germicidal bulb which kills parasites, harmful bacteria, and certain types of free floating algae as they pass thru the unit flowing over the bulb and back into the tank. UV's are usually plumbed in line with the return hose on a wet/dry or canister filter but hang on models are available as well.
Chillers
Chillers are designed to keep tank water cold or cool . Chillers are not needed equipment for the average tank but could be used if the tank is a species tank housing cold water fish or inverts or if the tank is located in an area where tank waters can reach very high temperatures because of lack of air conditioning or if lighting has such high out put that extreme heat is generated and fans are not able to keep temperatures low enough
Powerheads
Powerheads are commonly used in most saltwater tanks for a variety of reasons. Powerheads help to move water to create current for corals and filterfeeding inverts and to keep waterflow up in between rocks in reef tanks to remove silt and build up on live rocks and to increase oxygen levels, they are helpful in fish tanks to add current that many fish need to feel comfortable such as tangs. Powerhead also help to reduce dead areas in the tank where filtration is reduced because of tank decorations
Lighting
There are a number of different types of lighting for the saltwater aquarium. The type you will need depends on the type of aquarium you want to keep. Lighting is not so important for a fish only tank,a good florescent marine daylight bulb would work just fine and enhance the colors or most marine fish However If you wish to have a reef tank then High output lighting will be required for most corals, a few corals and sponges can do fine with lower light but most corals need high output lights to thrive and grow. High output lighting would include VHO bulbs, Compact florescent or Medal halide for clams and some corals needing extremely high light. It is not just the intensity but the spectrum that is important. Always be sure to ask the lighting requirement for corals before you buy them to be sure your lighting is correct.
Ro/Di Water
Starting a saltwater tank can be expensive but if you can afford the added expense of ro /Di water it is well worth the money regardless of the type of tank you wish to have. Reverse osmosis water is free of all metals ,phosphates,chorines,nitrates an ammonia as well as other additives the county water companies choose to put in our water. removal of these things make a much healthier tank and is almost a must for the reef tank, phosphates encourage algae growth and make keeping the the tank clean much more time consuming. If you can not afford the expense when you set the tank up try to at least do water changes with Ro and use Ro for top off water. most aquarium stores sell ro/di water in both fresh and saltwater by the gallon prices range about .50 per gal for fresh and 1.00 a gal for salt.
Adding Fish
Once the tank has cycled and the ammonia and nitrite levels are at zero it is safe to start adding fish. However care should be taken to not add too many fish at one time depending on the size of the tank and fish only one or two should be added at a time. After a week check the water, if it has remained stable then another fish can be added always test water frequently when adding fish in the first few months of a new tank . take care not to over feed the fish. Care should also be taken when adding live rock after fish have been added and add in small amounts large amounts of live rock in a new tank can raise the ammonia and nitrites very quickly. Always test after adding rock, any uncured rock can have serious die off and cause serious problems in a tank. Always use caution if collecting your own sand or rocks from the beach this is not recommended, and in some cases illegal.
